How to Install Stair Treads

When it comes to refacing a staircase, it’s important to know why you should consider doing it in the first place, rather than replacing stair treads entirely. Here are some things to consider:

• Cost-Effective Option: Instead of replacing the entire staircase, refacing or capping existing stairs with new stair treads and risers provides an easier, more budget-friendly facelift.
• Improved Safety: Non-slip materials and fresh treads can drastically reduce the risk of slips and falls.
• Aesthetic Appeal: Replacing stair treads can complement your home’s overall décor, giving your space a polished finish.
• Easy Maintenance: Modern stair treads are durable and often easier to clean than original, worn-out surfaces.

Once you’ve decided to replace stair treads, you’ll need to prep your existing stairs. Here are a few things you’ll need to do:

First, you’ll need to remove your existing stair runner. If your stairs have carpeting or any coverings, strip those down to bare wood or surface material. Use pliers and a scraper to remove any stubborn bits. Make sure to remove any nails or staples left behind as well.

You’ll then need to clean steps thoroughly, removing any dirt, grime, or build-up from the existing steps. A clean surface ensures that the adhesive bonds effectively when gluing the new stair treads.

Sand the stair surface and smooth out any bumps or imperfections using sandpaper. This helps the adhesive stick better and creates a flush finish for your treads.

Before installing the new stairs treads, make sure that the existing nosing is flush with the riser below for a smooth, even fit.

Many staircases have an overhanging nosing which can prevent new treads from sitting properly. Use a circular saw or a jig saw to cut the nosings flush with the risers.

If you need the proper tools, consider renting a saw or any other equipment you might need from Home Depot Tool Rental Services.

Before buying stair treads, measure each step carefully to ensure you order the correct size and number of treads and risers.

To measure the stairs accurately, start by counting the number of steps, which will give you the number of treads and risers you need. Don’t forget, you’ll usually need one more riser than you have treads, as stairs usually begin with a riser and end with a riser.

Measure the width of each step from side to side, and the depth (run) from the front edge (nosing) to the back where it meets the riser. Then measure the height (rise) of each step from the top of one tread to the top of the next.

Be sure to measure the thickness of your new treads as well, as they may alter the height of your steps.

Keep in mind that not all stairs are the same width or depth—especially in older homes – and some manufacturers offer custom-cut options for tailored fits.

Use a bevel square to measure existing stairs and determine any angles or account for imperfect treads.

If you’re not comfortable making cuts directly on the new stair treads from your refacing kit, use scrap wood or pieces of cardboard to test your fit or create templates.

Always use the longest measurement when cutting to ensure full coverage, and sand or trim away as needed to ensure a perfect, flush fit.

Number each stair riser with a pencil, and then mark the back of the new treads as well, so you know which tread goes where during installation.

Marking the top with a “T” and the bottom with a “B” will ensure that you don’t flip your boards around when installing, and numbering each pair of steps and risers will ensure that you know exactly where each piece goes.

Remember, you’re only going to see the front of the risers and treads, so mark up the backs all you want.

Use a fine blade on a mitre saw to make your cuts. Use a 70, 80 or 90-tooth blade to ensure there’s minimal damage to the wood.

When cutting wood with a veneer, cutting across the grain can cause splintering, so place a piece of tape next to your cut line to give yourself a cleaner edge.

Fit your riser into place and with a pencil, mark any adjustments that need to be made before cutting again.

Try to mark any further measurements on the tape.

For smaller cuts, you can shave off the excess with a belt sander instead of using the saw. The belt sander is more forgiving and there’s less risk of splintering.

Repeat these instructions for each additional step – around 13 or 14 for a typical staircase.

No DIY stair makeover is complete without painting or staining your stair treads and risers to match your décor.

Start by lightly sanding them with a 320-grit sandpaper and then use a damp rag to wipe down your surface. Remember that any wood with a veneer shouldn’t be sanded with anything too coarse, so try to stay above 300-grit when sanding, and never sand too deeply. Wipe the surface with a clean microfiber cloth to remove all dust and debris.

Stir your water-based stain then brush on the surface in long sweeping streaks with the wood grain, never against.

Make sure to stain the stair nose and the underside of the nose, then use a clean rag to wipe off excess and look for inconsistencies and blotches. Be sure to reapply more stain to any thin spots.

Wait 8-24 hours for your stain to dry before applying a clear coat to protect your treads and risers.

Open your clear coat and make sure to stir it well, removing any lumps or particulates, and ensuring it is a smooth consistency.

Making sure to avoid drips, apply two coats and wait 8-10 hours for it to dry. After it has dried, lightly sand them with a 350-grit sandpaper to knock out any imperfections before applying a third coat and waiting for that to dry.

In total, use a minimum of three coats of a good quality clear coat to protect your stairs from wear and tear to ensure they’ll last a long time.

Now we’ll show you how to attach stair treads and risers securely.

First, start with your risers and apply adhesive to the back in a zigzag or wavy pattern and then firmly press the wood down, making sure it’s properly aligned, in even contact with the surface underneath and flush. Try not to get adhesive too close to the edge to avoid seepage.

Use nails sparingly, but if you need to nail the risers in place, be sure to apply tape first and use a brad nailer to nail directly into the tape.

Once the adhesive has dried according to the manufacturer’s instructions, you can apply wood filler or a colour-matched crayon over the tape to cover any nail holes and then peel off the tape for a clean look.

Next, apply glue to the back of the stair tread and fit it into place. One thing to remember when glueing stair treads is to break the glue line every so often to allow air to escape when you press the tread down.

Repeat the process as you progress up the staircase and fill any holes with wood filler. Let everything dry and use stain on a rag to touch up any of the stair tread caps as needed.